Descripción
LOMAX
A division of CRADLEY MOTOR WORKS Ltd. Haven Works,
St. Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex. Inglaterra TN38 8BG
PHONE: 01424-717000 – EMAIL sales@sportsandleisurecars.co.uk
INTRODUCTION
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS for FORMS 223 – 224 based on 2CV – Dyane 6 – Ami8
He is contemplating the creative possibilities that open up to all automakers, large and small, to assemble a unique product.
LOMAX conversion kits combined with the engineering genius that originates from Le Patron´s 2CV, Dyane and Ami, offer the margin of personal satisfaction that difficult to overcome without considerable financial resources.
LOMAX remains cheap, even if development is pushed to the farthest limits of its considerable potential.
It´s up to you to decide how far you want to go in terms of fit, construction, quality, innovation and excellence.
Therefore, LOMAX has been economical with written explanations, which can confuse or complicate an otherwise straightforward project. The emphasis is on avoiding pitfalls and remembering the obvious, which can lead to a setback in your plans.
The name of the game is fun. To this end, LOMAX is always available to advise, guide and correct you, or recommend a better solution, should difficulties arise.
It´s possible to build LOMAX within a 45 to 50 hour timescale if you are an experienced mechanic or fitter. Less experienced people should not try to match this; A little more time is invaluable, especially when you´re enjoying what they´re doing.
Assembling a car kit is not like making a model from preformed components, when only the things shown are important.
The things that aren´t shown are actually the ones that should demand equals attention. The end result can be as good as the preparation allows.
LOMAX was truly inspired by the genius of Le Patron, and this should never be the case degraded by bad work.
PHOTO 1
Their LOMAX kit has been professionally designed and is therefore a normal set of tools and a set of metric plugs is all that is needed to produce a LOMAX car from various components.
The use of the brackets and accessories available from LOMAX means that there is no need for any welding.
PHOTO 2
OVERVIEW
Get the Haynes or Autodata manual relevant to your chosen donor vehicle.
It´s essential to replace all brake tubes.
Make sure all mechanical work has been completed on the chassis. Areas that require special attention are the following:
KING PINS: Pick up the car and check for movement, only a small amount is allowed for the M.O.T. If the items require reconditioning, it´s a simple exercise, following the instructions in the manual. However, if it´s beyond your capabilities, remove the entire arm and take it to your local 2CV specialist, who will be happy to service the item for you.
SUSPENSION: Very little can go wrong with this simple but effective system.
Check the shock absorbers by pushing down on the chassis, then release it, the car should return to its unladen position and should not bounce up and down. Check the spring: It should be quite difficult to press the chassis up and down using one foot. If it´is easy, there´s a chance the suspension units will need to be replaced. In addition
Check for any lateral movement of the suspension arms. If movement is detected, it can be ground by tightening the very large crenellated nut that secures the arms.
Follow the procedure in the manual
ALTERNATOR: A reconditioned alternator is always a good investment, this is a good investment.
The component is likely to be worn to the point that a breakdown is likely.
ENGINE: The two-cylinder engine has been proven to be extremely reliable and engines with 80 or 90,000 miles "under their belt" are capable of providing many more miles of trouble-free driving. It is recommended to replace the two front engine mounts and the gearbox mount. It is also good practice to decarbonize the older engine, following the procedure outlined in the manual. The oil cooler should be steam cleaned. Replace the contact breaker points, plugs, and capacitor of course.
CHASSIS PREPARATION
DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLY OF REAR ARMS.
Refer to the manual for the removal procedure if you experience difficulties with the following.
Remove the plastic caps from the ends and unscrew the brake tube connections. Remove the split pins into large crenellated nut, which holds the bearing in position. Tap the crenellated nut around counterclockwise using a drift. When the nut has been removed, the arms can be removed by knocking outwards.
HERETOFORE
WHEN MOUNTING THE MODIFIED ARM.
Make sure the bearings are in good condition, i.e. free of jolts or pitting. They should be clean and well-oiled. Replace and tighten the large collar to 30 – 40 kgf/m,
Then the extra minimum to the next split pin slot. Over-tightening can damage bearings.
WORK ON THE BODY.
Reinforced plastics are relatively easy to work with and by using ordinary hand tools,
All the necessary work can be carried out easily and professionally. A dust mask should
It can be used when sanding and drilling.
It is good practice, when cutting or piercing the body, to place masking tape the area and mark it on top of the tape.
When drilling G.R.P., do not use a very sharp drill, as it will tend to break.
Remove all sharp edges with a hand file or abrasive paper.
Removing flash lines from the body is accomplished by simply masking Tape both sides of the flash line and then rub the area with wet, dry water (400 degree grain). When the flash has softened, remove the tape and finish
with 1000 grade grain. This procedure can be used to remove any slight imperfections or scratches.
The high-gloss finish can be restored by using T-Cut´on a polishing mop powered by an electric drill.
Blind fixation to G.R.P. can be achieved by using "ARALDITE EPOXY" in a worn surface. Please allow 24 hours for the full cure to take place.
•Y BRANCH - UNUSED PLUG
CARRY AS INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: REPLACE ALL BRAKE TUBES AND REPAIR ALL BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
It is essential to install a new brake tube coil – they are inexpensive and fine
It´s worth the small cost to ensure total safety. The new brake tube is installed following the same route as above. However, it should be straightened at the end of the backplate and securely attached to the suspension arm. The redundant hole in the “Y” brake tube can be closed with an 8 mm bolt with PFTE tape, to ensure a good seal obtained. Finally, squeeze firmly.
To avoid fatigue in the brake tubes, they must all be firm. Secure it securely with cable clips, riveted pop in position. Alternatively, cable ties can be used.
Screw the new rear seat belt cage bracket to the chassis using the holes left by the original rear seat belt holder. Please refer to the photograph of the complete chassis for easy attachment.
Do not tighten the bolts completely, some movement should be allowed.
TENSIONING DEVICE
SPARE ARM
LEFT OR RIGHT HAND
ARRANGEMENT OF BRAKE TUBES
-5 -
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE LOMAX 223 & 224.
With the chassis prepared, painted and reconditioned as needed - remove the rear seat belt mounting crossbar (if installed) from the rear of the chassis (above fuel tank) (Model 223 only).
Remove the fuel tank (model 223 only).
Remove the inertia dampers from the front of the front arms (if fitted).
Attach the elongated suspension eyebolt. (Exchange Item).
Using a workshop manual as a guide, attach the modified trailing arm and support it on the rear member of the chassis. This modified trailing arm can be mounted on both sides, i.e. left or right (this information is for 223 forms only) and depends on supply.
Trim the chassis member so that the modified trailing arm has clearance, next, cut the opposite side approximately 10mm beyond the farthest hole used for the rear seat belt anchor frame (223 models only).
Install the LOMAX fuel tank. It is adjusted to the position shown in the sketch and bolted to the chassis, using the labels provided. It is very important to place the tank vent tube supplied (only 223 models). Use the original transmitter unit of the donor tank but install a new one meeting.
NOTE: WHEN SCREWING THROUGH G.R.P. USE
LARGE REPAIR WASHER UNDER THE BOLT HEAD
LOMAX FUEL TANK
223 ONLY. IF NECESSARY, REDUCE CONSUMPTION
CHASSIS FOR ARM CLEARING, RE-DRILLING
M10 BOLT GRAB HOLES
REMOVE THE CROSSBAR OVER THE FUEL
TANK AND USE EXISTING MOUNTING
HOLES
CLEARANCE HOLE AROUND THE TUBE
SILICONE RUBBER SEAL
ARREGLAR THRO´PLATE,
&G.R.P. 2xM8BOLTS
FIJE THRO´FLOOR AND
CHASSIS FLANGE 2 x
M8 SCREWS ***
ADD additional plates for SVA
SCREW TO THE FLOOR***
MOUNT INERTIA REEL TO PLATE AND FIXED
BELLOWS
QUADRANT SEAT BELT
QUADRANT & SPACER
SEAT BELT
-6-
MODIFICATION OF UNUSED REAR SPRING
Tighten the suspension spring on the opposite side by sliding the tube over the tie rod and by screwing in the eyebolt, compress the spring (see diagram).
Cut the forward bulkhead to allow the floor to rest on the chassis.
Trim the rear floor to make room around the rear wheel (223 model only).
Cut two 2" diameter holes in the floor of the rear bulkhead to allow the seat belt frame to pass, also cut the hole to accommodate the rear wheel. Trim the fiberglass at the front, at ground level to a width of approx. 34". This will allow the body to fit into the to the Citroën chassis.
If the donor vehicle is an Ami, the floor will need to be cut to accommodate the larger one suspension units. These cutouts can be fiberglass or boxed later.
IMPORTANT FILLER CAP: PLACE THE VENT PIPE IN THE GASOLINE
FILLING TUBE
DETAIL OF THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS - 223
Measurements: Canopy frame and Screen Location
IMPORTANT: Measurements differ on each side of the vehicle due to the built-in asymmetry that is not visually apparent.
This is necessary due to the projected location of the components on some models.
This page is attributable only to completed and registered old kits.
The dummy rear arm of the 223 must be used via the Lomax rear roll / interconnect bar or other device.
223 ONLY, IF WHEEL FAULTS CUT
REAR EDGE OF THE BODY FOR GIVING
10 MM CLEARANCE
HARD GAS TANK UP TO CROSS TUBE,
FIT
DONOR ISSUING UNIT, REPLACE THE GASKET
SECURE GOOD SOIL TO THE TANK
STEERING SPROCKET –
FIT RUBBER
GROME AGAINST BODY
-7-
Fit the body on to the chassis and check that it fits firmly - it is advisable to replace the sponge rubber seal found on the donor vehicle to prevent leakage in wet weather.
CENTRALISING THE
BODY ON TO THE CHASSIS.
It is essential that the body fits centrally onto the chassis. To do this, mark the outside face of the rear tyre with chalk or felt tip.
Mark the rear of the body in the centre beneath the floor.
Measure the width of the car at floor level, both at the front and rear. Divide and draw a centre line on the plywood floor of the body. Mark out the centre line on the chassis.
This can be taken from the middle of the seat belt floor anchorage holes and the centre of the chassis at the front end.
The body can then be placed on the chassis. Line up the rear tyre with the line on the rear of the body. The marks on the inside of the body should be aligned with the marked out centre line of the chassis.
FORE AND AFT POSITIONING OF THE BODY.
With the body resting on the floor pan and with the pinion of the steering column entering, connect the already lengthened linkage. Then fit the top steering wheel assembly to the scuttle frame and the G.R.P. bracket behind the dash board. Bolt in place.
Align the body to its central position. From underneath the body, mark out four holes, 2 on each side of the chassis, then drill.
Draw a line between these holes on either side and mark out the rest of the holes to line up with those on the chassis. It is advisable to put two extra holes as far forward as possible.
Use 8mm nuts and bolts with large repair washers on the plywood surface of the floor.
-t HOOD FRAME (PIVOT POINT)
100 Notch out for seat belt anchors
-8 -
THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY can now be offered up.
If the 2CV or Dyane is the donor, it may be considered to convert to a cable throttle from the Ami or Ami Super. The master cylinders must be changed if the brake fluids are different.
The major consideration in fitting the pedals is the distance of the throttle pedal to the side of the body. When this position has been determined to your satisfaction, drill and file clearance in the bulkhead to accommodate the brake master cylinder. Slide the unit through and bolt up. Now refit the brake fluid reservoir. If you wish to retain the Dyane or 2CV pedal assembly you will need an adaptor bracket (obtainable from LOMAX). On disc brake models, green fluid is required and all rubber seals should also be identified with green markings.
UNIVERSAL BRAKE
FLUID MUST NOT BE USED.
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTED
DIRECTLY
BEHIND BRAKE
PEDAL AS
INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
HANDBRAKE APERTURE DETERMINE
AFTER MOUNTING
QUADRANT TO
SCUTTLE & LEVER TO
SCUTTLE FRAME - CUT OUT
TO SUIT,
SEAL GAP WITH
RUBBER SHEET
DRILL THRO´ FOR THROTTLE
CABLE IN LINE WITH CLEVIS
DYANE DONOR - CUT HOLE
IN SCUTTLE TO CLEAR
BRAKE SWITCH
TYPICAL FOOT PEDAL ASSEMBLY
1 PEDAL AREA OF FOOTWELL.
2 DYANE
OR 2CV DONOR - MOUNT MASTER CYLINDER
TO LOMAX PEDAL CONVERSION KIT & MOUNT AS
AMI DONOR - MOUNT PEDAL ASSEMBLY INTO
3 PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY - CHECK &
SERVICE MASTER
CYLINDER - CHECK CORRECT OPERATION OF BRAKE
LIGHT SWITCH
4 USE
LARGE REPAIR WASHERS WHEN BOLTING THRO´G.R.P.
BOLT THE BODY TUB IN PLACE.
Use can be made of the original bolts supplemented with repair washers in contact with the GRP body floor.
Refit and adjust clutch cable; do not overlook the spacer bolted to the outside of the bulkhead, which should have been removed from the donor vehicle. Fit brake pipes and bleed the brakes using the standard procedure for this operation.
STEERING
PINION
USE GUIDE PLATE FOR
CABLE FROM DONOR.
CABLE MUST NOT
FOULG.R.P.
MOUNT PLATES - USE
ORIGINAL BOLTS
NOTES
-9-
STEERING COLOUMN & SCUTTLE FRAME ASSEMBLY
NOTE: 320mm at joint line
AMI ILLUSTRATED,
DYANE & 2CV - ONE U.J. AT
BOTTOM ONLY
U.J. STEERING
PISTEERING PINION
SWITCH POD
IGNITION SWITCH
SCUTTLE FRAME
DASHBOARD
STEERING.
The Ami steering column will fit on to the brackets provided on the body after only minor trimming and should be bolted up at the desired angle. Dyane or 2CV units can be used in modified form. When satisfied with the position, remove, then offer up the scuttle frame between the two mounting points. Fit the scuttle frame square on to the chassis and vertically bolt to the floor.
Clamp up steering column and drill the plate on the scuttle frame. Fit lengthened universal joint, column and wheel, then bolt up using new fibre or nylon insert type lock nuts. If the original dashboard gear change is to be used, fit to the scuttle frame. The lever will need to be extended by approx 15".
HAND BRAKE....DISK TYPE.
Decide on the position of the handbrake lever, then bolt the ratchet accordingly to the scuttle frame in the central position, when using Dyane and 2CV donor vehicles. Use the bracket provided on the offside when the donor is an Ami.
Assemble the handbrake pivot bracket with the brake cable fitted. Extend the handbrake lever through the bulkhead (as on the 2CV and Dyane). When you are satisfied everything is working efficiently, tighten all bolts.
HANDBRAKE....DRUM TYPE.
Clamp the ratchet to the scuttle frame, then extend the handbrake lever to connect with the original unit. Test and bolt up. Fit the battery in the battery box and clamp securely with the original bar from the donor vehicle.
-10-
Mark out where the steering pinion shaft touches the body, slide the body back and drill a 25mm hole for clearance around the pinion-shaft. Where the pinion shaft touches the body, remember that it is the top of the hole, which is important, not the centre. When carrying out this operation ensure that the body is central on the chassis from front to rear.
With the body resting on the chassis, centralise it by measuring from the side of the chassis to the outside of the body tub. Measurements should be done from a number of points to ensure accuracy. (Refer to separate instructions on centralising the body contained within this manual).
The body should be placed as far forward as is possible, without the rear wheel touching the body at any point. There should be a gap of approx. 10 - 15mm between the body and the front swinging arm cover plate. If the body is in contact with the rear wheel at any point, trim away the minimum amount of material from the body to allow clearance.
FRONT MUDGUARDS.
The front mudguard brackets utilise the inertia damper mounting points. Inaccuracy in the brackets may result in the need to pack or file smooth to ensure accurate alignment. With the car on the ground and the ride height adjusted to 150mm -200mm ground clearance front and back, from the underside of the chassis, fit the brackets and offer up the wings. These should be fairly low at the rear (approx 100mm ground clearance) to prevent spray when driving in wet conditions. Bolt up using spring washers.
On donor cars without inertia damper mounting LOMAX manufacture a special moulding stay which facilities the fitting of wings. This item fixes on to the two bolts holding the steering drag links in position. It is important that these bolts are tightened as instructed in the manual. Alternatively, flared wings may be fitted.
-11-
Lomax recommends the use of GS instrumentation, i.e., tachometer, peedometer, battery and fuel gauges. For ease of fitting, a suggestion, is to fit a wooden, aluminium or stainless steel dashboard over the switches. The dials can be mounted to this, which is then bolted to the bulkhead.
If a floor type gear change is to be used, utilising the gear selector from the Ami Super or GS, cut sufficient from the bulkhead to allow the new gear selector shaft to enter from inside the car.
With the gear box set in neutral, fit the new selector shaft. Bolt the selector unit to the floor and by selecting each gear in turn, cut the clearances required from the bulkhead. Fit a rubber boot over the hole to finish.
If a spare wheel-carrier is fitted, drill through the body - use spacers between the scuttle frame and the body as required. Then bolt in place.
Scuttle Frame
Pack out between
body & fixing
Door opening
shown for clarity
Spare wheel carrier – mount
LH or RH as required.
150mm
Suggested Dashboard Layout
Hole sizes
Small gauges – 51mm
Large gauges – 80mm
Scuttle Frame Assembly
-12-
WIRING.
If use of the original instruments is contemplated, the original wiring loom can also be used and the only modification that is necessary is to lengthen the leads, which are to connect with the headlights and indicators. - using GS instruments produces more of a period effect within the car. All of the instruments are used: these consist of - speedo, rev counter, voltmeter, petrol gauge and clock. All of these instruments are wired to the multi socket, from the back of the combined voltmeter and fuel gauge from the original wiring loom. The best method to ensure that complications are kept to a minimum, is to separate the loom on the back of the GS instrument panel, leaving the wires connected to each instrument separately for as long a period of time as possible. The connections
are as shown on the diagram. Use only auto electrical connecting blocks and terminals. Ensure an adequate earthing system is established. The body panels and brackets are not suitable for use as an electrical earth.
View from Rear
TO SIDELIGHT
SWITCH RED TERMINAL
MULTI- SOCKET
ON
ORIGINAL LOOM
2.CV-0ANE-AMl
PANEL
UGHT BROWN
FACH PANEL
LIGHT
NOTES
1. Blue and Purple terminals on Rev Counter to be connected to each low-tension terminal on the ignition coil. If engine will not start, reverse the polarity.
2. Instrument Light Bulb Holder, wire to center terminal.
3. On some models the internal indicator warning light is absent.
You must fit one.
-13-
FLASHER
UNIT
INDICATOR
WARNING LIGHT
An additional cable must be connected to the Centre terminal of the Flasher Unit. The bulb should be connected, in series, as diagram to earth. Indicator Warning Light.
WIRING.
Utilising the original loom, mount the fuse boxes on to the outside of the front offside bulkhead. The wiring to the front lamps may need to be extended. Otherwise reconnect as original. Care should be taken to ensure that the loom is not draped over hot or moving parts.
Fit the horn. This will require a separate earth.
Fit and connect the rear lights. Although the Dyane rear lights will fit, LOMAX
recommends the use of circular (Land Rover type) lights. Provision of a separate earth must be made for the rear lights.
EXISTING WIRING INTO LOOM
-14-
TO ADJUST THE STEERING LOCK. If cycle type wings are fitted at the front, the steering will need to be adjusted and an adjuster screw will be found behind and below the kingpin. Set both sides so that the mudguards clear the
anti-roll bar and exhaust and allow approx. 10mm clearance to compensate for vibration of the wings.
TO
FIT THE HEADLIGHT MOUNTING FRAME, remove by cutting just enough of the drip tray (on the outside of the chassis member) to enable you to slide the headlamp bracket over the chassis and bring up to be level with the
centre of the nearside cylinder head. Clamp up to the chassis outside lip with the clamps provided in your kit.
FIT THE HEADLIGHTS
Headlights can be mounted to the fitted frame. Motorcycle front indicators will then fit on to the lugs beneath the headlights.
Indicator
Headlamp
Frame
Headlamp
40 750 40
RECOMMENDED LIGHTING INSTALLATION
223 only – mount
lights to body
Reflector
Rear / Brake Light
Indicator
Bumper Bar – 224 only
223 Numberplate
-15-
RE-SITE ALTERNATOR, OIL COOLER & COIL USING LOMAX BRACKETRY
ENGINE COMPARTMENT LAYOUT
ENGINE.
With the cooling ducting, oil cooler, alternator, inlet/exhaust manifold, fan pulley (which has already been reduced in size) and oil filter removed, fit oil cooler bracket to inner two of the four engine mounting bolts with the “T” tube facing forward. To fit, slacken all the engine mounting bolts including the four holding the crankcase. Fit bracket and re-tighten. Check everything for final tightness. Hang the oil cooler from the bracket and fasten, using the original nut and bolt.
Fitting the oil hose should be done dry to ensure a good tight fit on the pipes.
Cross the hoses over and clamp tightly with “Jubilee” clips, ensuring that the hose does not foul the starter dog. Lomax offer a more durable braided hose upgrade.
ALTERNATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
A new one piece bracket has been introduced for easy assembly, and improved adjustment.
It is fixed in position by bolting through the oil cooler mounting hole. An 8mm high tensile-bolt should be utilised. The alternator lug fits in between two metal projections, and allows adjustment by means of the 8mm bolt on the top of the bracket. Once the correct belt tension has been arrived at, the lock nut should be tightened.
Fit the modified oil filler, the drain tube may need to be trimmed to ensure a free run back to the dip stick.
-16-
SEATING.
If LOMAX seating is not used, the recommendations are as follows: MG Midget, or Triumph Spitfire. The major consideration being, the relative height from the seat squab to the chassis. Also bear in mind that the tonneau will have to fit over the top of the seats.
Fit the front seat belt cage, then drill through the upper body, bolt in place the upper seat belt with its mounting. Then fit the remaining parts of the seat belt as originally designed refer to diagram.
Trim and bolt the engine side panels to the drip tray. Trim the bonnet as required, allowing clearance around the exhaust, ensuring the horizontal return under the grill is level with the top of the chassis.
N.B. The towing loops will have to be removed from the front of the chassis and the front corners of the chassis must be trimmed to suit. Hold the bonnet in place with clips as required. Fit the grill by bolting in place to clear the opening for the starter handle.
Finish the edges with body filler.
Fit the original exhaust (without the tailpipe by fixing the rear expansion chamber to the side of the body at approximately floor height, using "cotton reels", i.e. spacers available from most motorist accessory shops.
Fit the rear wheel cover. Seal with mastic or other waterproof compound of choice.
PETROL CAP.
Although the original system can be used, LOMAX recommends the use of a Triumph Spitfire type flip top filler and flexible filler hose. Fit the petrol cap and filler hose as required. The breather pipe is of vital importance - check that this detail has not been overlooked. The hose MUST be of the petrol resistant type.
Fit carpeting, rubber mats and sound proofing as required.
Fit aero screens. Care should be taken to line up both screens at the same time to ensure accuracy. Fit rear view mirror as required. Fit rear number mounting and plate.
Test all wiring and run engine.
When fitting the Tonneau, begin from the centre and work outwards. If this is done in cold conditions, remember to stretch the tonneau before drilling each stud, as the material will "ease" considerably when warm.
When you are satisfied that the car is finished, check over every item again, making sure that each part is secure.
M.O.T. and SVA
The car will have to be weighed for the licensing authorities - in the case of 223 Models, the weight of the car has to be below 450kg to comply with regulations. .
Tax, insure and DRIVE IT !
- 17 -
DONOR VEHICLE INSTRUCTIONS
GUIDE NOTES FOR THE PREPARATION OF THE DONOR VEHICLE
FOR ACCEPTANCE OF THE LOMAX 224, 223 and 424 UNITS
STRIPPING THE DONOR CAR
If possible, before stripping the donor car, carry out an extensive road test in order to check the brakes, steering, engine, gearbox and clutch.
If the car is a non-runner it is best to make it run prior to the many alterations which are to take place. If any area is suspect, make a note so that it may be rectified at a more convenient time. Wear is to be suspected in the front wheel bearings, the kingpins and the drive shaft splines.
It is strongly recommended that renewal of brake pipes, shoes, or pads is carried out if the vehicle is more than three years old.
A good workshop manual for the original car is a most useful asset and well worth the comparatively small investment.
For rapid removal of unwanted components, a good metric socket set and combi spanners are essential. The following items are also required: a set of screwdrivers, a hammer, penetrating oil and a hacksaw.
ASSEMBLIES, WHICH MAY BE REQUIRED FROM THE DONOR CAR
Rolling chassis - complete with all suspension, engine and gearbox
complete.
Steering column.
Pedal assembly
Hand brake and mounting bracket. The mounting bracket is spot welded
to the body.
Seat belts and anchorage points.
Rear lights - 2CV and Dyane, plus all bulbs.
Wiring harness, instruments and switches.
N.B. If it is intended to re-use the original harness, clearly label every
connection.
Wiper assembly.
The complete exhaust system.
Fuel tank and pipes.
Gear change. The floor change from the GS or Ami Super cars is easily
modified if a floor change is required.
- 18 -
BODY REMOVAL
1 Remove identification plates from body.
2 Remove rear lights completely and the bulbs from the other lights.
3 Remove bonnet, boot and spare wheel.
4 Unfasten all bolts holding wings, side panels, wheel arches and front bumper assembly and remove these items.
5 Disconnect and label all control cables and wiring back to the engine.
6 Remove seats.
7 Unfasten hydraulics and brake assembly and remove.
8 Remove steering column.
9 Remove petrol feed and filler pipes.
10 Unfasten all bolts through floor (11mm), including those in the boot.
11 On the Ami the rear also has bolted clamps to be removed.
12 Rock the car body from side to side. If it resists, then all the bolts have not been removed. If the body is not to be salvaged, or sold, it can be pushed over and off.
13 The rolling chassis is now ready for thorough cleaning before structural and mechanical checking and reconditioning in conjunction with the workshop manual.
14 Dispose of old body, after checking that you have not left anything on it that may be of use.
15 223 and 224. Referring to the manual, remove the engine cowling and fan.
16 The flange to which the fan was bolted must be cut down to approximately 5" diameter.
- 19 -
GENERAL NOTES
1. Fitting rear internal mudwing. 223 only.
It is most important to fit the mudguard in such a way as not to touch the rear tyre when the car is fully loaded.
Cut the rear floor leaving at least 25mm (1") gap around the wheel and tyre.
With the body in its correct position, jack the Lomax 223 under the rear of the chassis. Disconnect the rear suspension tie rod, and move the arm to its highest position into the body. The mudguard can then be placed in position and the clearance checked. Once the position has been established, bolt and fix in place with waterproof
mastic.
2. Fold Down Windscreen (NO LONGER AVAILABLE)
It is important if the .car is to be driven with the windscreen folded down, that a safety catch be fitted to prevent the windscreen moving out of position. Considerable pressure is generated under the screen in the folded down position, by the wind.
3. Front Mudguard Brackets now Inertia Type. With this type of mudguard bracket, it is important to use new bolts (high tensile 7mm) from the local Citroen dealer. Originally the car has one long and one short. Both should be the long type. New tab washers must be used.
4. Bonnet Fixings
Many types of fixings are available for securing bonnets. Whichever type of clips or catches are used, a secondary system should be employed. In its simplest form a leather Bonnet Belt may be provided and also adds to the "Period" look of the car with the continental bonnet, which may be hinged at the back. An ideal secondary securing position is located by the depression for the starting handle.
5. Wire Wheels
When fitting the Lomax Splined Hubs to the Citroen studs, secure the nuts with locktight or "Centre Popping" the end of the nuts. When the wire wheels are fitted onto the splines ensure that the taper on the wheel hub fits hard against the taper on the splined hubs. Ensure the spinners are fitted to the correct hub.
Check everything is still tight after the first 5O miles then again after 500 miles have been completed.
- 20 -